Early summer morning view

Undiscovered Tuscany: a civilized wilderness

South of ‘Chiantishire’, within easy reach of Siena and Florence to the north, and Rome to the south, lies the Alta Maremma, an area of dramatic vistas, forested mountains, sweeping valleys and ancient hilltop towns.

The region is scattered with Etruscan and Roman remains, as well as medieval and Renaissance towns and villages. Most shops and restaurants accept all major credit and debit cards, as do the local wine producers. Boasting a beautiful coastline, the Maremma also encompasses a dramatic hinterland of virtually untouched wilderness. Stunning views and rugged landscapes contain hidden springs of clear mountain water - take a 5 litre demijohn and fill up. It’s pure mineral water, and it’s free. Wildlife abounds (though sightings of specific species cannot be guaranteed), thanks to the sensitive environmental practices and policies of the area. Yet those wishing to sample the cosmopolitan side of Italian life will find Siena, Florence and Rome within easy reach.

View from the drive

The food is varied far beyond the stereotypical pasta and pizza, though both are readily available for those who crave them. Game, including, boar and roe deer, are amongst the inland specialities, with carbohydrate-free vegetable dishes on the side. Fish dishes, such as Sea Bass in Mad Water and Prawns in Silence to name but two, proliferate along the coast, while for the more conservative there is always ‘Bistecca Fiorentina con Patate Frite’: (Steak and chips to you and me). There are lovely restaurants in almost every village. Nearby Roccalbegna boasts a particularly fine example, sought out by visitors from all over Europe.

Vines at Montalcino

The wines, very much a part of Italian life, range from the simple restaurant table wines (usually extremely good, but won’t travel) to the more serious fine wines, such as the up-and-coming Morellino, and the still undiscovered but highly prised Montecucco. More familiar DOCs such as Chianti, and the internationally prestigious Brunello di Montalcino are readily available, but for those in search of something new, great treats lie in store.

The drive